Editor’s Choice: Pearl Obsession
Not Your Grandmother Pearls: Minimalistic, Eccentric, Edgy and Refined – Straight From Runway to Your Closet
Until the early twentieth century, pearls were traditionally considered a symbol of the high status of the person wearing it and complemented only noble ladies’ exquisite evening gowns being unavailable for ordinary mortals. Within developing of the fashion revolution in Paris provoked by Coco Chanel The Great, pearls appeared to be ceased as a privilege of affluent and mighty ones – namely, Chanel introduced fashion on pearls to the masses, turning this luxury into an accessory publicly available. So, how she made it happen? Easy. Chanel ordered artificial pearls in order not to wear real ones.
In the fair opinion of Coco: “Imitation is the most honest form of flattery,” that’s why, unlike many ladies of her century, she wasn’t ashamed to make a public appearance with imitation jewellery made out of artificial pearls. As Chanel explained, an abundance of “real” jewellery is a bad taste attribute and pure water bragging, and in confirmation of her theory, she confidently complemented her looks a pearl rope-necklace whose length reached over 90 cm.
In a blend along with the cult little black dress, a pearl string appeared to look so advantageous that it instantly became an absolute hit among ladies of that time who borrowed the idea of wearing pearls directly from Chanel. Coco herself was in charge of finding people who began a massive production of pseudo-pearl necklaces for her atelier. Chanel asserted: “You should wear only fake jewellery on the street, meanwhile the real one needs to be treated inside in order to please yourself,” and it’s hard to disagree.
Some time ago, already in the twenty-first century, when madness prevails over elegance and classic, pearl jewellery was regarded as a primary characteristic of the adult aunties wardrobe and the vintage misconception out of grandmother’s chest. It seemed too old-fashioned, too chaste, too accurate, too inappropriate for contemporaneity where chaos and plastic are dominant over purity and delicacy; on the whole, there were too many “too many” of this kind of accessories without definition “fashionable”. So far, in 2017, by means of the light hand of Simone Rocha who let models out on the runway with unmatched, disproportionate hoop earrings enchased by fresh river pearls, a trend for pearl jewellery made an official comeback.
Now it’s not the same counterpart classic which Chanel The Great used to pray for: variety of forms, natural imperfections of the raw pearls, multitude of proportions, colour and size games, asymmetry, transformation into brand-new figures, set in yellow, white and rose gold, combination with sparkles and rhinestones – using of pearls has never been so varied and multifaceted.
Refined rings and necklaces, lovely headbands and pins, statement earrings and subtle bracelets, minimalism and modernism – today’s selection consisted in only best of the best that will make a perfect complement both to a harsh office look and to a cocktail dress for a skyscraper rooftop party.